Bodega NQN "Picada 15" Blend, 2007

Been writing an awful lot about rosés lately. Shame, because some of my favorite summer reds are those friendly, approachable blends everyone pretends to pooh-pooh and then swigs as fast as they can when backs are turned. So! Here's a short and sweet write-up of one of my guilty pleasures.

The 2007 Bodega NQN "Picada" 15 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot produced in Patagonia, Argentina. What a country! What wines! Cooler climate makes for better acidity and more distinct character than Chile overall, while the leading grapes - Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon - are everybody's favorite, even the trendy wine Poindexters in plaid I so want to stomp.

A nice garnet red in the glass, with dusty berries and other red fruit on the nose, and some fruitcake spice to make it fun. Lush but not flabby mouthfeel, this is a round, medium-bodied treat for the big wine aficionado, the kind of man who wears denim and drinks Sonoma Zinfandel. Or Syrah from the Rhone. And fights bulls. Soft tannins, medium, earthy finish with some pepper notes. $10. Pair this with London Broil and mashed potatoes and green beans, or some juicy rare burgers off the grill.

Serafini & Vidotto "Il Rosso Dell'Abazia," 1999

Today's post is about the 1999 Serafini & Vidotto "Il Rosso Dell'Abazia," but begins with a long digression.

Only one wine has ever brought me to tears. It is unfortunately not eligible for this forum due to its extraordinary price ($350-400 retail), but I name it now to establish my benchmark for truly great wine: the 2004 "Astralis," the flagship Syrah from the Clarenden Hills collection. At first whiff it was the wine that will always haunt me, setting the bar for every wine I've tasted since. Huge, dark, brooding, pungent, rich - but it was an infant! Even then, I knew that the 2004 Astralis was a wine that would not be ready to drink until 15-20 years later; it is still barely approachable now. L'Enfant terrible. Shockingly good.

Which brings me to the focus of today's post: the 1999 Serafini & Vidotto "Il Rosso Dell'Abazia." It has nothing in common with "Astralis," not on the surface. "Astralis" is fermented from Syrah; this wine is made using Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, a Bordeaux blend. Clarendon Hills is located 25 miles south of Adelaide, and northeast from the McLaren Vale in southern Australia; Serafini & Vidotto have their vineyards in Montello, a hilly area on the right bank of the Piave river in Treviso, a sub-region within Veneto (see photo).

"Astralis" is an ultra-boutique wine, a world-class luxury item made in a truly New World style. "Il Rosso Dell'Abazia," on the other hand, is an exemplar of Cabernet Sauvignon in its Italian expression, but following the vinification philosophy and techniques of the great French makers. What do these wines share, what intangible quality? Easy: greatness. Why wax eloquent? It is greatness.

I opened the "Il Rosso Dell'Abazia" to celebrate moving to Brooklyn. It was to be paired with prime rib, roasted potatoes, and sauteed mushrooms, the first meal made in our new kitchen. If wine and food pairing could be considered a tango, this wine was definitely the leader. Textbook blood orange fading to pale rose-brown at the rim in the glass. On the nose, the first pour offered devious aromas, almost all secondary: rose petals, waterlilies, tar, olives, hung meats, and hints of dark fruit. In the mouth, "Il Rosso Dell'Abazia" felt like velvet. Over a decade of bottle-aging softened the tannins beautifully, giving it one of the finest textures of any wine I have tasted since "Astralis." More dark fruit in the mouth, along with tobacco and a definite touch of balsamic spice. Long finish, echoing the completely even and balanced experience this wine provides. It touches greatness.

Normally a bottle retails for $80, but I found some for $16 at wholesale. Buying another half-case today. I do not think it will last another year, having just peaked, so find this wine immediately. Pairs with roast game of any kind, simpler fare; let the wine lead you.

Seigneurs de Bergerac, 2006

Picture the scene: Wednesday night. You have friends over for dinner. Somebody decided that it was time for some Coq au vin, perhaps veal roasted in herbs. You want a Bordeaux or something like it, but cannot possibly shell out more than $10. Enter this wine, the 2006 Seigneurs de Bergerac, a Bordeaux style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from the Bergerac region in the southwest of France. It is brick red in the glass, simple and yet highly aromatic for the price, showing notes of cherries and other berries on the nose. The mouthfeel is a little rough, but remains supple due to the healthy amount of Merlot in the blend, and overall proves very quaffable, with the dark blackberry and plum fruit accented by stony notes, a hint of mineral, and slightly coarse tannins which bite into meat. For the money, I say go for it. $9.

Errazuriz Merlot, 2007

The 2007 Errazuriz Merlot surprised me. A nose full of spicy black pepper mixed with red and black fruits, particularly cherries and blackberries, with a touch of smoke. On the palate, this wine shows structure beyond what I anticipated, and features more black fruits combined with definite toasted oak character, along with vegetal hints of green pepper, making this a very traditional offering in some respects. Fine soft tannins, decent acidity, and a smooth finish round out what ends up being a great package for $9 a bottle. Pairs well with roasts of any kind.

Joseph Carr Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005

For an example of what the Napa Valley can really produce in reds, look no further than the Joseph Carr Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. Although it's labeled as a varietal, it's actually a Bordeaux-style blend, comprised of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 2.5% Cabernet Franc, and 2.5% Syrah.The vintage I tasted, the 2005, was utterly delicious. Strong notes of cherry, plum and leather on the nose, with a touch of cedar and smoke, featuring more black fruits and chocolate in the mouth, balanced to fine-grained tannins. Excellent structure and intensity, and it finished long, hinting at cinnamon. It blew me away, and it'll blow you away too. $20 a bottle.

Mollydooker Two Left Feet, 2005

The other Mollydooker I've encountered. Two Left Feet, like its companion The Boxer, is just packed with fruit; in fact, it has even more, primarily cherry and cassis, and has almost as much spice, about as much body, and almost overwhelms (in a good way) with the massive finish. A blend of Shiraz, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Serious oak character, showing as a deep smoky quality. It also has a definite cedary element. Don't drink this alone. Be brave! $24. This needed decanting when I tried it, but by now should be drinking very well. Enjoy with rare peppered or seasoned steak.