Château Latour-Martillac, 2004

Bordeaux: my ongoing drinking fetish, the ultimate wine in terms of structure, power, and complexity. Nothing grips like great red Bordeaux. With this in mind, it is time to reveal my latest love from the wine region I most often associate with greatness: Château Latour-Martillac, a grand vin from the Pessac-Léognan appellation exhibiting everything I love about the appellations of Graves. First, some information from the Wine Doctor, one of the preeminent wine bloggers. The name "Latour" is, of course, derived from the 12th Century stone tower which stands in front of the chateau, the chai or wine cellars, and the surrounding vineyards. Red and white vines both lie on Pyrrenean gravel, the common terroir of this region, with 33 hectares devoted to red plantings including 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, and 9 hectares reserved for white grapes including 55% Semillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Muscadelle, with an average age of 30-40 years for all the vines.

Such terroir, along with improved winemaking techniques in recent years, results in wines with intensity and wonderful balance. The 2004 Château Latour-Martillac, comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and which received some mixed reviews in early tastings, has bloomed into a wine I would recommend for any table over the next 10 years. I found it to be a glorious dark ruby in the glass, with a highly perfumed nose full of ripe black fruits, cassis, violets, hints of smoke, and dried herbs. Over time it opened up in the glass, and emitted aromas of figs and stony earth. In the mouth, more blackcurrants and cassis paired to chocolate and silky tannins. Powerful, yet harmonious and balanced; far more velvet glove than iron here. Superb. $29 for a half-bottle.

Chateau Noaillac, 2005

Chateau Noaillac has a very dark presentation (purple/ruby) in the glass. Stiff tannins, but only from youth; it’s big enough to afford decanting for a half-hour, or 10 minutes of glass time. The nose consists mostly of mineral redcurrant and savory hung meat, with cassis and blackcurrants in the mouth preceding a long, round finish – maybe with a hint of rosemary or sage. Its acidity is just enough to balance the fleshy fruit, and the bite from the tannins makes it a perfect compliment to roasted meats. I really, really liked this one. I was told it’s aged in a combination of new and old French oak. Chateau Noaillac is classified as a Cru Bourgeois, which means that it is considered one of the high quality wines from the Left Bank Bordeaux regions that were not included in the 1855 Classification. While there is a high degree of controversy surrounding this label, Cru Bourgeois is still a term to look for when seeking good value in Bordeaux. This wine hails from the Médoc, one of the most famous wine-growing regions in France. With the exception of Château Haut-Brion from Graves, all of the red wines in the 1855 Classification are from the Médoc. Because it costs around $18-20 retail, I recommend trying it immediately.

Chateau La Croix de Queynac, 2005

I will freely admit that I am a Bordeaux fiend. No other wine generally excites me as much as Bordeaux; its beautiful structure and complexity make it a gripping experience. The Chateau La Croix de Queynac, with its blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, is easy drinking, and ready now. Soft mouthfeel, solid black fruit, and moderate tannin. Its finish is long and fascinating, with a hint of burnt match, or tar. Probably the result of natural sulfur dioxide. Definitely a good, complex wine for the $10 price tag.

Chateau Bonnet Blanc, 2005

The 2005 Chateau Bonnet Blanc, a white Bordeaux from the Entre-Deux-Mers appellation, is comprised of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle. At first, the nose wasn't expressive, but as the wine opened up I was increasingly impressed with its distinct citrus overtones, focused on lemon and grapefruit. Light-bodied, good balance of sweetness and acidity, and the flavors play well together. Soft mouthfeel thanks to the Muscadelle, with some good lemon fruitiness and a quick tingling finish. At around $12 a bottle, this is a surefire keeper to watch in future vintages.

Chateau des Graves, 2001

Here we have some 2001 Chateau des Graves, a straightforward Bordeaux from the Graves region, where the reds are generally of higher quality than the whites (particularly those of Pessac-Leognan). Though Château de Graves evokes a famous appellation in Bordeaux, its name is
actually derived from the gravelly soil composing part of this vineyard’s terroir. This wine had a distinctly earthy quality to it, with aromas of ripe red berries, and was nice and soft, probably due to a high percentage of Merlot in the blend. Tasty, and a good introductory Bordeaux Supérieur. 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. $12 in more recent vintages.