Mercier Brut Champagne, NV

While in France this April, we visited the caves of Mercier, one of the great producers, but apparently not so well known as some of the other producers from the region, like Bollinger, or Krug. They have over 230 hectares of vineyards, however, all on chalky sub-soil, and produce some very fine wine. Over 50 cuvees go into the final blend for this Brut, and it shows in the complexity of the final product. We opened our last half bottle recently, and what follows are my tasting notes.

A pale straw in the glass, with a glorious mousse, leading to zesty aromas of green apple and pear paired to a richly toasted element, like bread that has just been baked. Great acidity, crisp and biting, balanced to the bright fruit. This is not shy wine. The finish is also long and refreshing. Drink this on any occasion, but especially with oyster gratin, or lightly battered clams. $18.

Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Champagne

Made in the Blanc de Blancs tradition, exclusively from the Chardonnay grape, this nonvintage Champagne is perhaps the best of its kind I've acquired. Normally this wine retails at around $46 for a half (375 mL) bottle, but I obtained it at a bargain that makes it eligible for this forum.

In the clear glass bottle, apparently a replica from an 18th Century model, the wine is a pale golden color, almost a straw gold, with unmatched brilliance - like afternoon summer light on water. The nose shows slight citrus fruits, especially lime, but is balanced with notes of honey, and a full nutty toastiness that I just love in new style Champagne. This wine is extremely elegant on the palate, but with firm acidity, a creamy backdrop showing more nutty richness and round fruit. Unbelievable finish, one that lingers.

I would drink this pensively.