Bodega NQN "Picada 15" Blend, 2007

Been writing an awful lot about rosés lately. Shame, because some of my favorite summer reds are those friendly, approachable blends everyone pretends to pooh-pooh and then swigs as fast as they can when backs are turned. So! Here's a short and sweet write-up of one of my guilty pleasures.

The 2007 Bodega NQN "Picada" 15 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot produced in Patagonia, Argentina. What a country! What wines! Cooler climate makes for better acidity and more distinct character than Chile overall, while the leading grapes - Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon - are everybody's favorite, even the trendy wine Poindexters in plaid I so want to stomp.

A nice garnet red in the glass, with dusty berries and other red fruit on the nose, and some fruitcake spice to make it fun. Lush but not flabby mouthfeel, this is a round, medium-bodied treat for the big wine aficionado, the kind of man who wears denim and drinks Sonoma Zinfandel. Or Syrah from the Rhone. And fights bulls. Soft tannins, medium, earthy finish with some pepper notes. $10. Pair this with London Broil and mashed potatoes and green beans, or some juicy rare burgers off the grill.

Mulderbosch Rosé, 2009

It's still hot out, and this week will be beach week, so why not review another rosé? Few other wines hold my attention so well in the heat; no other wine satisfies quite like rosé usually does. I have found Mulderbosch's take on this summer classic to be usually one of the great values in wine, performing far above its price point - depending on your palate. It has enough depth to keep it from getting boring should you buy it by the case, while being approachable enough to pour for everyone you know.

The winery of Mulderbosch hails from Stellenbosch in South Africa, the premiere wine region in that country. Located in the Western Cape province, and known primarily for Pinotage and delicious Cabernet Sauvignon, along with Sauvignon Blanc, Stellenbosch is the spot to watch if you're buying from South Africa at the wine shop. As a whole the region produces about one billion liters of wine every year. Mulderbosch consists of 48 hectares of well-managed farmland, of which nearly 22 are planted with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, from which this particular rosé is made. The other half is left wild, ensuring as natural an environment for the vines as possible. Particular care is taken in the cellar to avoid bruising of the fruit, and production is kept low to keep quality as high as possible.

In the glass, I found the 2009 Mulderbosch Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon a deep rich pink, nearly salmon in color. At first approach, I was gratified by quintessential rosé aromas: cold cherries, summer strawberries, cranberries, hints of violet, along with a distinctive sort of animal musk. In the mouth the wine is dry, not overly so, just perfect... acidity is balanced perfectly to the forward fruit. It has a snappy finish, bright, with a peppery note that is completely awesome. I would readily quaff this with BBQ, cold cuts, or a platter with heaps of fresh garlicky hummus.$9.

Serafini & Vidotto "Il Rosso Dell'Abazia," 1999

Today's post is about the 1999 Serafini & Vidotto "Il Rosso Dell'Abazia," but begins with a long digression.

Only one wine has ever brought me to tears. It is unfortunately not eligible for this forum due to its extraordinary price ($350-400 retail), but I name it now to establish my benchmark for truly great wine: the 2004 "Astralis," the flagship Syrah from the Clarenden Hills collection. At first whiff it was the wine that will always haunt me, setting the bar for every wine I've tasted since. Huge, dark, brooding, pungent, rich - but it was an infant! Even then, I knew that the 2004 Astralis was a wine that would not be ready to drink until 15-20 years later; it is still barely approachable now. L'Enfant terrible. Shockingly good.

Which brings me to the focus of today's post: the 1999 Serafini & Vidotto "Il Rosso Dell'Abazia." It has nothing in common with "Astralis," not on the surface. "Astralis" is fermented from Syrah; this wine is made using Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, a Bordeaux blend. Clarendon Hills is located 25 miles south of Adelaide, and northeast from the McLaren Vale in southern Australia; Serafini & Vidotto have their vineyards in Montello, a hilly area on the right bank of the Piave river in Treviso, a sub-region within Veneto (see photo).

"Astralis" is an ultra-boutique wine, a world-class luxury item made in a truly New World style. "Il Rosso Dell'Abazia," on the other hand, is an exemplar of Cabernet Sauvignon in its Italian expression, but following the vinification philosophy and techniques of the great French makers. What do these wines share, what intangible quality? Easy: greatness. Why wax eloquent? It is greatness.

I opened the "Il Rosso Dell'Abazia" to celebrate moving to Brooklyn. It was to be paired with prime rib, roasted potatoes, and sauteed mushrooms, the first meal made in our new kitchen. If wine and food pairing could be considered a tango, this wine was definitely the leader. Textbook blood orange fading to pale rose-brown at the rim in the glass. On the nose, the first pour offered devious aromas, almost all secondary: rose petals, waterlilies, tar, olives, hung meats, and hints of dark fruit. In the mouth, "Il Rosso Dell'Abazia" felt like velvet. Over a decade of bottle-aging softened the tannins beautifully, giving it one of the finest textures of any wine I have tasted since "Astralis." More dark fruit in the mouth, along with tobacco and a definite touch of balsamic spice. Long finish, echoing the completely even and balanced experience this wine provides. It touches greatness.

Normally a bottle retails for $80, but I found some for $16 at wholesale. Buying another half-case today. I do not think it will last another year, having just peaked, so find this wine immediately. Pairs with roast game of any kind, simpler fare; let the wine lead you.

Finca el Origen Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007

Sometimes I just want a wine that is not the least bit complicated. Something that pairs with burgers. Something heady and full, like a plum left to ripen until it nearly bursts with its own heaviness.

Cabernet Sauvignon is my grape of choice for those moments. 2007 Finca el Origen Cabernet Sauvignon, a Chilean Cabernet of high auspices, has one of the most forward and aggressive presentations out of all of the Chilean Cabernet Sauvignons I have tried in the past few years. Exploding with fruit, well-oaked and textured, this is the answer to the timeless question: Are fruit bombs allowed? The answer is a decisive yes.

Dark ruby in the glass, nearly purple, with great legs and a brooding aspect. The nose bursts with raspberries and plums, with distinctly ripe crushed fruit character; a bit of tobacco and bramble here as well. There are supple tannins, though this one is a bit flabby for my taste. Smooth, long finish. Drink now or keep for a couple of years. $14.

Seigneurs de Bergerac, 2006

Picture the scene: Wednesday night. You have friends over for dinner. Somebody decided that it was time for some Coq au vin, perhaps veal roasted in herbs. You want a Bordeaux or something like it, but cannot possibly shell out more than $10. Enter this wine, the 2006 Seigneurs de Bergerac, a Bordeaux style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from the Bergerac region in the southwest of France. It is brick red in the glass, simple and yet highly aromatic for the price, showing notes of cherries and other berries on the nose. The mouthfeel is a little rough, but remains supple due to the healthy amount of Merlot in the blend, and overall proves very quaffable, with the dark blackberry and plum fruit accented by stony notes, a hint of mineral, and slightly coarse tannins which bite into meat. For the money, I say go for it. $9.

McManis Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005

It's really quite easy to buy delicious California red wine for under $20. Here's one way: get a case of McManis Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, fermented in stainless steel tanks and then aged in new and used French and American oak. The nose features aromas of blackberry and hints of clove and mocha, followed by a mouthful of rich black fruits, like blackcurrant and plum. This is accompanied by strong hints of chocolate, heavy toasted oak supported by potent tannins, and a lingering finish. Dense, round, huge. As Emeril Lagasse would put it, bam! Buy it. $15 a bottle; one of the great barbecue wines.

Joseph Carr Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005

For an example of what the Napa Valley can really produce in reds, look no further than the Joseph Carr Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. Although it's labeled as a varietal, it's actually a Bordeaux-style blend, comprised of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 2.5% Cabernet Franc, and 2.5% Syrah.The vintage I tasted, the 2005, was utterly delicious. Strong notes of cherry, plum and leather on the nose, with a touch of cedar and smoke, featuring more black fruits and chocolate in the mouth, balanced to fine-grained tannins. Excellent structure and intensity, and it finished long, hinting at cinnamon. It blew me away, and it'll blow you away too. $20 a bottle.

Hess Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003

This is a classic Napa-style Cabernet Sauvignon; and an exceptional wine for steak. The nose brings aromas of cherry, with some rich spice and nutmeg notes. The mouthfeel has a rich velvety texture and a balanced tannic structure, with berries, cassis, red licorice, and other black fruits. It finishes long, with strong toasted oak elements. Some definite chocolate hints too, which I just love in domestic Cabernet! $25.

Burgess Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002

The 2002 Burgess Cabernet Sauvignon is another fantastic offering from the Napa Valley. It has an ideal deep ruby red color in the glass. In both the nose and mouth it's packed with bold fruit, blackberries and blackcurrents, with a hint of jamminess. Not much weird stuff here: no tea leaves, mocha, no chocolate, not much earthiness... just a well-balanced wine with big, upfront, mouth-coating California style. The wine was aged in pure French oak, but isn't toasted or full of smoky flavors. Full-bodied and subtle in its structure, with soft tannins and some spice just before the long finish, but the exuberant juiciness of the wine smoothes the spice out. Retails at about $25. Try any vintage of this wine, as soon as possible. Pairs well with all types of barbecued beef, particularly seasoned steaks. Very versatile.

Raimat Cabernet Sauvignon, 1999

The 1999 Spanish Raimat Cabernet Sauvignon hails from Cataluna. It is blended with a tiny bit of Merlot. This stuff is great: aromas of plum and tobacco on the nose, with a very dense and opulent mouthfeel. Serious complexity at this value, and great structure. Rustic, with black fruits and chocolate on the palate, some earthy character, and moderate oak. Medium finish. $15. Enjoy with hard cheeses or chocolate-based desserts.

Mollydooker Two Left Feet, 2005

The other Mollydooker I've encountered. Two Left Feet, like its companion The Boxer, is just packed with fruit; in fact, it has even more, primarily cherry and cassis, and has almost as much spice, about as much body, and almost overwhelms (in a good way) with the massive finish. A blend of Shiraz, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Serious oak character, showing as a deep smoky quality. It also has a definite cedary element. Don't drink this alone. Be brave! $24. This needed decanting when I tried it, but by now should be drinking very well. Enjoy with rare peppered or seasoned steak.

Excelsior Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006

Excelsior Cabernet Sauvignon, from South Africa. Buy this. Today. Buy a case. If you do, you'll find that fun wines can be dirt cheap: this retails for about $7 a bottle. Huge fruits, well-balanced tannins, lots of raspberry on the nose, blackberries, plums, and extremely potent mineral in the mouth. Full-bodied, with a smooth, spicy finish. It's downright effervescent for a Cabernet Sauvignon. Just switched over to screwcaps! Ridiculously good for the money, but definitely only suited to certain palates.

Curious Beagle Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004

This was voted the most popular wine at an annual grand tasting I worked in 2007. An approachable Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, the 2004 Curious Beagle is a great example of how delicious domestic Cabernet can be. Both 2004 and 2005 have been great years for West Coast vineyards in general. This wine is rich with juicy red berries on the nose, black fruit in the mouth, and an enticing smoothness. Not too complex, but has great structure thanks to 18 months of barrel aging. It has a nice long finish; I would rank it far beyond its price point. Ready to drink now. $12.