Clos du Tue-Boeuf "La Butte," Touraine, 2009

Touraine has been on my mind this summer... but not for reasons that other attractive, cultured New Yorkers might imagine. Nevermind the numerous Renaissance châteaux dotting the landscape, once ancient strongholds of Angevin kings. Forget the fabled meeting place of Joan of Arc and Charles VII. Shove off, Descartes; run away, Rabelais. Nope, for me Touraine is the place to go for great values in wine made from Gamay. Why? Because Gamay is sexy.

Some of the great stars in winemaking, vignerons extraordinaire, do their good work in Touraine. Chief among these is Thierry Puzelat, who parties hard, dresses well, and rigidly adheres to natural vinification practices. His wines are a solid reason to stick with reds on even the hottest summer nights. I personally experienced a brief out-of-body experience, became delusional with joy, after a glass of the subject of this post. So, that's not true. But everything that follows is totally factual, almost.

The 2009 Clos du Tue-Boeuf "La Butte," made entirely from Gamay, is the kind of wine you'd want to order on your third date, preferably one of those cultured New Yorkers mentioned previously. It isn't expensive, and it doesn't have the cachet of big-name Burgundies made from the ever-sensual and potently loamy-luxurious Pinot Noir. Swirl the glass, however, and you will stop everything else you are doing. You will cease to pay attention; you will risk your rapport with the new girl/boy, and you will sniff. Plump berries, cherries and raspberries with a nice tangy snap, will waft upwards. Swirl, sip, and the acidity comes into play, rocketing you to the wine's next dimension. By now your date is either going very well, as your girl/boy gets into the action in his/her glass, or you have been dumped. Who cares? Beautiful balance, quenching finish. Goddamn.

Put a chill on it. Day or night, open this and say something romantic. It'll work. $13.

Rouge Madon, Touraine, 2008

Sometimes, I want to let loose and try wines based purely on the recommendations of strangers. On those rare days, I imagine strolling into a shop and ambling along until some helpful salesperson catches sight of me. "Oh," I would respond offhandedly do their polite offer of assistance, "I was looking for a wine that smells vaguely of rose petals, cherries, and ferret." A truly courageous connoisseur would look me dead in the eye and ask me: "Ferret, or weasel?" That, or they'd slowly back away and leave me to my browsing. More productive sessions of this sort would almost always land me with an interesting bottle for the weekend.

While this has never once in fact happened, I would like to try it. If I did ask for wine showing berries, roses, and faint notes of animal, it might well net me a bottle of the 2008 Rouge Madon, from genius natural winemaker Christian Venier; Madon is the hamlet in Touraine where he produces his wines. On pouring this wine into a glass, the first thing I noticed was the beautiful color, a pale garnet: perfect for a wine made entirely from Gamay, the grape of Beaujolais. Delicious aromas of, yes, cherries, cranberries, gamy musk, and slight floral notes dance a little dance. Then you find out, on tasting, that this is simply an ethereally beautiful woman cleverly disguised as a bottle of wine. Bright, excellent acidity zings like juicy lightning, red fruits, tender finish. Unbelievably tasty, and affordable: $16. Drink this with a slight chill, pair with thinly sliced salami, or prosciutto.

Petit Amour, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse, 2008

The 2008 "Petit Amour" VdP de Vaucluse offers everything one could possibly hope for in a "house wine": a friendly label, a blend of familiar varietals (Grenache, Merlot, and Syrah), and a cheapness bordering on the obscene. It is an excellent party wine, and pairs with a variety of foods. It is not deserving of undue attention, certainly, but merits mention here as another example of great value at a rock-bottom price.

A nice garnet red in the glass, with aromas of black cherries and currants, with hints of earthiness and dried leaves. This leads to more red fruits cloaked by a hint of oak in the mouth, slightly coarse tannins, and a quick finish. The final impression is of an uninspiring but definitely approachable rustic table wine, good as a go-to; great considering its price at $5 a bottle.

Didier Montechovet "Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire," 2008

When I first tasted this, the wine intrigued me. Later on, however, getting the details proved an embarrassing moment in my career as a wine drinker. This wine rested in a bin full of standard Burgundy when I bought it, and so of course I assumed that "Bourgogne" meant "Pinot," as usual. But the bright aromas on the nose and tart palate told me otherwise. I assumed it was just an eccentricity of the wine, however, and treated it as Pinot. A Pinot even lighter than normal, dancing with crisp acidity in the mouth, almost biting, meaner than most. But I knew my stuff! This was normal Burgundy. Definitely.

And then! lo and behold, truth erupted onto the scene when I mentioned the wine to a knowledgeable staff member at Astor Wine & Spirits (where I happened to buy this bottle). She informed me that this was no standard Burgundy (aka, Pinot Noir), but rather was Gamay, the red grape of Beaujolais, in its current incarnation from Didier Montechovet, an oddball producer - working very close to Pommard - whose wines are always brilliantly expressive, if somewhat challenging. The appellation on the label, "Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire," is a general appellation that is no longer used, with normally very low requirements for wines produced under its category - as the name implies, the wines with "BGO" status are considered very plain compared to AOC wines; however, there is nothing plain about this one.

The 2008 Didier Montechovet Bourgogne "Grand Ordinaire" shows pale brick red in the glass, with a nose packed with cranberry and strawberry aromas tinged with distinct orange peel elements, and a bit of spice and minerality. This in turn rushes into a mouthfeel defined by sharp acidity, especially in the midpalate, balanced to more juicy red berries and mineral; the wine is light-bodied at 10.5% alcohol, with a clean finish. Absolutely the strangest expression of Gamay I have ever encountered, and apparently extraordinarily lean this year; this might be a wine to watch for in the future. $15.

Château Latour-Martillac, 2004

Bordeaux: my ongoing drinking fetish, the ultimate wine in terms of structure, power, and complexity. Nothing grips like great red Bordeaux. With this in mind, it is time to reveal my latest love from the wine region I most often associate with greatness: Château Latour-Martillac, a grand vin from the Pessac-Léognan appellation exhibiting everything I love about the appellations of Graves. First, some information from the Wine Doctor, one of the preeminent wine bloggers. The name "Latour" is, of course, derived from the 12th Century stone tower which stands in front of the chateau, the chai or wine cellars, and the surrounding vineyards. Red and white vines both lie on Pyrrenean gravel, the common terroir of this region, with 33 hectares devoted to red plantings including 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, and 9 hectares reserved for white grapes including 55% Semillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Muscadelle, with an average age of 30-40 years for all the vines.

Such terroir, along with improved winemaking techniques in recent years, results in wines with intensity and wonderful balance. The 2004 Château Latour-Martillac, comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and which received some mixed reviews in early tastings, has bloomed into a wine I would recommend for any table over the next 10 years. I found it to be a glorious dark ruby in the glass, with a highly perfumed nose full of ripe black fruits, cassis, violets, hints of smoke, and dried herbs. Over time it opened up in the glass, and emitted aromas of figs and stony earth. In the mouth, more blackcurrants and cassis paired to chocolate and silky tannins. Powerful, yet harmonious and balanced; far more velvet glove than iron here. Superb. $29 for a half-bottle.

Sablet "Les Deux Anges" Côtes du Rhône Villages, 2007

Not much to say about this wine, but not because it lacks in anything. The 2007 Sablet "Les Deux Anges" Côtes du Rhône Villages is an excellent example of this appellation and vintage, especially considering what a terrific year it was in the Rhône, with consistent high quality across the board. Wines from this vintage tend towards chewy tannic structure, highly aromatic liveliness in the glass, and great robustness. This wine proved no exception.

A disclaimer: I love Syrah. I might love Syrah even more than Cabernet Sauvignon. It's the most heady wine I've ever had the pleasure of drinking, with such intensity, such profound wildness, that I can't helped but love it. This wine is predominantly Grenache, and as such presents a wonderful ruby color in the glass, with a nose of generous dark fruits, mostly briar-patch blackberries and plums, lightly tinged with spice. In the mouth, more black fruits are balanced to great silky tannins - courtesy of Syrah - with hints of pepper and integrated oak. Good complexity, tasty finish. Great with herbed roast lamb, beef stew, or pepper-crusted pork loin. $15.

Mercier Brut Champagne, NV

While in France this April, we visited the caves of Mercier, one of the great producers, but apparently not so well known as some of the other producers from the region, like Bollinger, or Krug. They have over 230 hectares of vineyards, however, all on chalky sub-soil, and produce some very fine wine. Over 50 cuvees go into the final blend for this Brut, and it shows in the complexity of the final product. We opened our last half bottle recently, and what follows are my tasting notes.

A pale straw in the glass, with a glorious mousse, leading to zesty aromas of green apple and pear paired to a richly toasted element, like bread that has just been baked. Great acidity, crisp and biting, balanced to the bright fruit. This is not shy wine. The finish is also long and refreshing. Drink this on any occasion, but especially with oyster gratin, or lightly battered clams. $18.

2008 Caves des Perrières Pouilly-Fumé

I have not updated this in some time. Too long. Today's posting: a Loire beauty, the 2008 Caves des Perrières Pouilly-Fumé.

Beautiful pale straw in the glass, good clarity, and a nose rich in stony fruit - citrus: lemon zest, grapefruit. Highly mineral, gloriously mineral, like drinking water poured over cold mica. Full of that Loire "something." Mixed soil, chalk/limestone brightness and mouthwatering acidity, and impeccable balance to the citrus fruit.

Drink now. $12.

Shellfish? Oysters on the halfshell, scallops, or maybe with herb-encrusted basa in a white wine sauce.

Domaine Gérard Millet Rosé, 2008

First among Rosé wines I have tried, the 2008 Domaine Gérard Millet Rosé is a vibrant companion at any picnic. This bottle came back with us from France, where we tried it on site at the winery in Bue. The Gérard Millet family has been making wine for five generations, at an estate covering 20 hectares of vineyards - only three of which are planted with the Pinot Noir grapes used to make this rosé! There are three ways to make rosé. In this case, the grape were left in contact with the juice for a brief period after being crushed, and then the skins were pressed and removed so only some tannins and pigmentation enter the final product.

Showing crystalline clarity in the glass, the wine practically bursts with bright aromas of raspberry and cherry fruit and hints of floral notes. More red fruits in the mouth are paired to bright acidity, with sensual earthy notes and remarkable depth and complexity. This fruity, dry, classy rosé, peerless in its intensity, is also possessed of a restraint unmatched in other wines at its level. Perfect for olive bread, hummus, or salads with salmon. $20.

Réserve des Vignerons Saumur Rouge, 2005

For a simple, straightforward wine that will please almost anybody you bring to dinner, try this 2005 Réserve des Vignerons Saumur Rouge, from the Cave des Vignerons in the Saumur region in the Loire Valley. It is made entirely with Cabernet Franc, the principle red grape of the Loire, although some Pinot Noir is grown here too.

The Cave des Vignerons was established in 1957 by a group of winemakers who wanted to band together to share knowledge and meet future challenges. Placed atop the Saint Cyr en Bourg hill at the center of a sprawling plot of vineyards, the site features two vertical shafts dug out of the local limestone, allowing the winemakers to take advantage of gravity flow in the winemaking process between the receiving area and the vats, located 25 meters below ground level.

Light to medium-bodied, the wine itself is red violet in the glass, showing strong dark berries on the nose; I found it highly aromatic. In the mouth, supple tannins back a fruity core of blueberries and cherries, with hints of iron mineral, green olive, and pepper. Strident acidity completes the package, with a medium finish. Pairs well with roast meats. $7.

Chateau des Cleons Sèvre et Maine Muscadet, 2007

I believe that the Loire Valley has, year to year, some of the most exciting potential for value finds in all of France. This offering, the 2007 Chateau des Cleons Muscadet, is made entirely from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, and proved a solid example of a typical dry white Loire wine. The term Muscadet Sèvre et Maine refers to the fact that this wine is produced in the hilly area of the Muscadet region along the banks of the Sèvres and Maine rivers, two tributaries of the Loire. Most of the best Muscadet wines come from this subzone. Within Muscadet, about 32,000 acres of vines spread out in a rolling arc of tenderly cultivated vineyards, the best of which are planted in soil composed of a mix of granite, gneiss and schist.

Muscadet tends to be dry, and is known for being versatile as a companion to seafood dishes. The 2007 Chateau des Cleons Muscadet has also been produced sur lie, meaning that the wine was left in contact with the yeast lees for a period of time before bottling, adding extra flavor, richness, and some effervescence that would otherwise be missing. In the glass it shows a pale yellow with hints of green. The nose features complex citrus fruit aromas leading to a crisp, bright mouthfeel showing more tart lemon and lime fruits with hints of mineral. The finish is surprisingly balanced, considering the acidity of this wine. As noted before, this would pair especially well with shellfish, but could accompany many seafood dishes, or just drink it alone.

Why did I go on and on about this wine? Perhaps the price: $6!

Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Champagne

Made in the Blanc de Blancs tradition, exclusively from the Chardonnay grape, this nonvintage Champagne is perhaps the best of its kind I've acquired. Normally this wine retails at around $46 for a half (375 mL) bottle, but I obtained it at a bargain that makes it eligible for this forum.

In the clear glass bottle, apparently a replica from an 18th Century model, the wine is a pale golden color, almost a straw gold, with unmatched brilliance - like afternoon summer light on water. The nose shows slight citrus fruits, especially lime, but is balanced with notes of honey, and a full nutty toastiness that I just love in new style Champagne. This wine is extremely elegant on the palate, but with firm acidity, a creamy backdrop showing more nutty richness and round fruit. Unbelievable finish, one that lingers.

I would drink this pensively.

Chateau Noaillac, 2005

Chateau Noaillac has a very dark presentation (purple/ruby) in the glass. Stiff tannins, but only from youth; it’s big enough to afford decanting for a half-hour, or 10 minutes of glass time. The nose consists mostly of mineral redcurrant and savory hung meat, with cassis and blackcurrants in the mouth preceding a long, round finish – maybe with a hint of rosemary or sage. Its acidity is just enough to balance the fleshy fruit, and the bite from the tannins makes it a perfect compliment to roasted meats. I really, really liked this one. I was told it’s aged in a combination of new and old French oak. Chateau Noaillac is classified as a Cru Bourgeois, which means that it is considered one of the high quality wines from the Left Bank Bordeaux regions that were not included in the 1855 Classification. While there is a high degree of controversy surrounding this label, Cru Bourgeois is still a term to look for when seeking good value in Bordeaux. This wine hails from the Médoc, one of the most famous wine-growing regions in France. With the exception of Château Haut-Brion from Graves, all of the red wines in the 1855 Classification are from the Médoc. Because it costs around $18-20 retail, I recommend trying it immediately.

Château de Pizay, 2006

A modest, yet delicious estate-bottled Beaujolais, the 2006 Morgon Château de Pizay has a nose dominated by fairly intense blackberries and cherries, a silky palate with extremely gentle tannins, and notes of strawberry, raspberry, apricots and some earthiness. These combine to present a classic Morgon flavor profile. Beaujolais, located in Burgundy, is made from the Gamay grape, and enjoys a strong cult following. It is worth noting that this is not the same as the Beaujolais Nouveau that comes into our country every year. That is junk, plonk, and not meant to be tasted by serious wine drinkers. Morgon is one of the ten Cru level Beaujolais, the top of the wine-producing hierarchy in this region. Another I've tasted is a Brouilly, the Château de La Chaize. Château de Pizay was founded in the 14th Century, making it an extremely old site. About $15 a bottle. It's an outstanding value, good for cheerful entertaining, and pairs well with poultry or hearty stews.

Domaine de Pouy, 2004

I wanted a zingy white wine for sipping, and this little gem, Domaine de Pouy, did the trick. Made from Colombard and Ugni Blanc, it has a bright and floral nose. In the mouth it is crisp, has great acidity and citrus fruit, particularly lemon, and finishes with a definite hint of grapefruit. The fruit flavors are backed up by solid minerals and an herbaceous note in the mouth. This Vin de Pays is from the Côtes des Gasgogne, a region most notable for Armagnac. It retails for about $10, and is an exceptional value. Stands on its own as an aperitif, or pairs with seafood of all kinds, including basa, sole, or mussels.

Hubert Veneau Pouilly Fumé, 2005

The 2005 Hubert Veneau Pouilly Fumé, a straight-up Sauvignon Blanc from this appellation east of Sancerre in the Loire Valley, has great intensity and structure, with strong notes of lemon and grapefruit, and a strangely sweet herbaceous backing. Dry and medium-bodied. There were some hints of peach towards the end. Unbelievable finish! The limestone soil in this region shows well. Absolutely ready to drink now, and it's a steal at around $20 a bottle. Pairs with oysters or any other shellfish, many types of sushi, and tangy goat cheeses.

Domaine de la Cote de l'Ange, 2005

The 2001 Domaine de la Cote de l'Ange is a Châteauneuf-du-Pape, an appellation located in the southern Rhône Valley. Like all wines of this sort, it is a blend of many varieties, in this case Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Syrah. In all, thirteen grape varieties are permitted for use in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This particular specimen had intense red fruits with smoky notes and mineral on the nose. The palate featured earthy black fruit balanced with nice tannins and a long finish hinting at coffee. An awesome wine, overall. $24. Drink it with lamb, prepared however you like; I'd prefer a roast.

Olivier Leflaive Rully 1er Cru, 2004

Olivier Leflaive Rully 1er Cru. I must make a big deal about this white Burgundy. If you get a chance to drink this, do so. Rully is located in the Côte Chalonnaise, in the south of Burgundy. 1er Cru means Premier Cru, which of course means First Growth. It's got floral and honey aromas with a hint of citrus, and is beautifully well-balanced, with creamy oak complementing fresh acidity and vibrant fruit. Full-bodied, soft, and a lingering finish. When people think buttery French Chardonnay, they're thinking of something like this. $20. Get a case. A bottle of this will compliment roasted chicken, halibut, or boiled lobster with pepper butter.

Thibert Mâcon-Fuissé, 2005

This Thibert Mâcon-Fuissé presents a great value in white Burgundy. Pure Chardonnay, moderately oaked, the result a well-balanced, full-bodied wine with hints of citrus and mineral on the nose, and buttery mouthfeel on the palate complemented by hints of peach and white plums. This is one of the Mâcon appellations allowed to hyphenate the town's name into the wine region, allowing a more specific designation than just "Mâcon" or "Mâcon Villages." Such specificity is supposed to indicate higher quality, and does in this case. Worth trying at $15.

Chateau La Croix de Queynac, 2005

I will freely admit that I am a Bordeaux fiend. No other wine generally excites me as much as Bordeaux; its beautiful structure and complexity make it a gripping experience. The Chateau La Croix de Queynac, with its blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, is easy drinking, and ready now. Soft mouthfeel, solid black fruit, and moderate tannin. Its finish is long and fascinating, with a hint of burnt match, or tar. Probably the result of natural sulfur dioxide. Definitely a good, complex wine for the $10 price tag.